Red Wine

The 2023 Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore reveals dark depths of crushed blackberry, sage, cedar shavings and spice. Remarkably fresh, it displays textures of pure silk, supple and pliant, with polished red and black fruits underscored by crunchy mineral tones. It's long and staining, also gently tannic, leaving a pleasantly bitter tinge and nuances of sour citrus. The lift and finesse here are fantastic.

Crushed violets mix with stone dust, cedar spice and raspberries as the 2022 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Sant'Urbano wafts up from the glass. It is lively and spry, with silken textures offset by bright cherry and strawberry tones as rosy inner florals cascade throughout. Structured and long, the 2022 displays amazing length and a pleasantly chewy sensation as an air of lavender calls the taster back to the glass for more.

Just bottled, the 2023 Langhe Nebbiolo is terrific. A blend of La Spinetta's four sites (Starderi, Valeirano, Gallina and Campè), the Langhe Nebbiolo is an excellent introduction to the Spinetta range. Black cherry, plum, chocolate, licorice, lavender and dried herbs are all amplified in a succulent, opulent Langhe Nebbiolo that over-delivers.

The 2021 Dolce & Gabbana Trancredi is youthfully coiled, holding its power in reserve. It opens with a hauntingly dark bouquet of mentholated herbs, cocoa, gravel dust and dried black cherries. Elegant in style, it offers silken textures and depths of ripe red and black fruits, which gain tension as saline mineral tones and a bitter dark chocolate saturation amass toward the close. Tannic and staining, the 2021 finishes long and classically dry, leaving a resonance of blackberry and a hint of sage to linger. Currently wrapped up tight and in need of cellaring.

The 2021 Barbera d'Asti Superiore Bionzo is redolent of blackberry, gravel, incense, licorice, graphite and dark spice. As always, the Bionzo is a brooding Barbera from Asti although these days the wines aren't as huge as they were just a few years ago.

The 2021 Barbera d'Alba Gallina is pretty impressive in this vintage. Dark and potent, with terrific persistence, the Gallina has plenty of texture that has always been a signature but without the heaviness and strong oak imprint that was at times penalizing. Dark red/purplish fruit, lavender, licorice, mocha and rose petals scream out of the glass. Pretty floral top notes brighten the finish.