2024 Marziano Abbona Langhe Rosato DOC

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  Dessert Wine, Regular

  2018 Martin Mullen Trarbacher Huhnerberg Auslese

  € 39,00 INC. VAT

  Overripe pear and lychee on the nose take on a syrupy impression on the polished, soft, subtly creamy and delicate palate. The finish accentuates the impressions of vanilla and liquid lily perfume that were already noted in this year’s "two-star" Hühnerberg Spätlese. And here, too, there is enough juiciness that the caressingly sustained, lush finish doesn’t become cloying. Müllen would certainly take issue with my assessment of ageworthiness, but while it’s going to take a long time for this wine’s superficial sweetness to back off, I am not convinced that the wait will pay significant dividends in complexity. Müllen is currently much enamored with the evolution of his vintage 2003 Spätlesen and Auslesen, with their softness of feel, prominent sweetness and confectionary, caramel-tinged character. Oenophiles who share his high opinion of those traits in Mosel Riesling may well feel rewarded by patient cellaring of a 2018 like this one. (Yet-riper sweet wines from the Hühnerberg – along with other nobly sweet wines from Müllen’s vintage 2018 collection – will be tasted in late 2020 and reviewed as part of a subsequent report.)

  David Schildknecht. Tasting date: November 2019   90 pts

  © 2025 Vinous Media

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  Regular, White Wine

  2020 Martin Müllen Kröver Paradies Spätlese** Trocken

  € 18,90 INC. VAT As with a number of Müllen Wines, the aromatics and flavors here are quite distinctive and unusual, but also satisfying. Purple plum, mango, mirabelle, golden beet, moss and wet stone serve for a pronounced sense of ripeness allied to subtle earthiness and herbacity. The feel is creamy, which enhances the soothing impression delivered on a lingering finish kissed by wet stone and wood smoke.Add to cart
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  Dessert Wine, Regular

  2013 Martin Müllen Trarbacher Hühnerberg Spätlese

  € 42,00 INC. VAT

  This marries fruit from the uppermost of Müllen’s four terraces in Hühnerberg with fruit from below the terraced section (the same steep sector that yielded this year’s impressive “no star” Spätlese trocken). Pineapple, white peach and mint mingle on the nose with site-typical suggestions of woodsmoke. The silken palate is at once soothingly cooling and tinglingly invigorating, with sweetness supportively judged without trying to become a dominant player in its own right. Hints of quince and caramel point to advanced ripeness (with a trace of botrytis) and are gorgeously complemented by the wine’s textural richness and subtle sweetness on a lusciously lingering finish. The balance of richness with fresh fruit juiciness and the impeccable balance of sweetness are features I have generally missed in residually sweet Müllen bottlings of past vintages. (Whether or not this wine’s vineyard origins or the fact that it is the collection’s sole sweet Hühnerberg Spätlese account for its being labeled without stars, don’t let that mislead you – even if Müllen encourages this – to anticipate less than top quality.)

  David Schildknecht. 93 pts

  © 2025 Vinous Media

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  Dessert Wine, Regular

  2005 Markus Molitor Zeltinger Deutschherrenberg Auslese**

  € 90,00 INC. VAT

  Even the fragrance seduces with fully ripe apricots, nectarine, melon and other exotic fruits. On the palate, the selection does not look too sweet. Here, too, ripe stone fruit, pineapple and a number of exotic aromas are shown. Typically Molitor, the selection shows a playful acidity, which is in an elegant harmony with the sweetness. With a powerful finish and a long aftertaste, it remains tasty for a long time.

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